A pedestrian passes the Gale Street Inn on June 20, 2025, in Chicago. The restaurant recently shut down. | Stacey Wescott/Chicago Tribune
By The Editorial Board | Chicago Tribune
The hit TV show “The Bear” chronicles an independent restaurant’s existential struggles and celebrates Chicagoans’ determination to survive. But you need only traverse one of the city’s real-life arteries, such as North Broadway through Edgewater or along 26th Street in Little Village, to see the the state of one of Chicago’s most celebrated and artful industries: shuttered restaurants pockmark almost every block.
Chicago’s storied restaurant business is mired in crisis.
If you doubt our word that this is a dire emergency, we suggest you swivel your head from road or sidewalk and look for yourselves.
Fine dining. Trattorias. Taquerias. Vietnamese cuisine. Italian beef. It seems not to matter. Chicago has never been a locus of chain restaurants, unlike many cities in the south. The fame of the city’s restaurants has sprouted from the creativity of independent operators, some craving (and winning) James Beard Awards and international acclaim, and others merely wanting to serve and nourish their communities.
We hardly need to tell you that many locally owned restaurants are the foci of their neighborhoods, which accounts for why there was such a howl of anguish in recent days when the cozy Gale Street Inn on Milwaukee Avenue in Jefferson Park announced its closure. Its famously genial operator, George Karzas, had owned and run the restaurant since 1994. Among his many other good works, he supported his local Jefferson Park theater, The Gift, storefront theaters and storefront restaurants sharing much of the same homegrown DNA in this city. At the Gale Street Inn, you always knew you were in Chicago.
The problem? The current headwinds are many in the restaurant business, including the well-documented rise in food costs. But top of mind of those in the hospitality industry in Chicago is the high cost of labor and the city’s shortsighted decision to get rid of the so-called tipped minimum wage following a campaign by an out-of-state activist group, One Fair Wage, which had worked its agenda on Mayor Brandon Johnson and enough of the aldermen in the City Council. Karzas’ decision to close the Gale Street Inn comes as the tipped minimum wage was set to increase again Tuesday, rising from $11.02 to $12.62 an hour as part of a phased-in approach that has been a progressive nightmare for restaurants.
One Fair Wage is led by Saru Jayaraman, a Yale University-educated lawyer, activist and academic who runs the Food Labor Research Center at the University of California at Berkeley. Back in Chicago, Christina Gonzalez from Taqueria Los Comales told us this past week that she worries not about political campaigns, but the price of her burritos at a family business with a 50-year history.
“I can’t charge $24 for a burrito,” she told us. “My customers won’t come.”
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